Techniques & Patterns
Kadwa (also Kadhua)
The elaborate and laborious Kadwa technique is used to incorporate motifs. In Kadwa weaving, each motif is woven separately as opposed to other Banarasi handloom sarees (also known as "phekwa" or cutwork sarees). In Kadwa sarees, there are no loose threads at the back of the fabric and hence, no cutting is required. Using this technique, many different motifs of different sizes, colours and textures can be woven on the same sari, which is quite difficult to do otherwise. While this takes longer on the handloom, it makes a more robust pattern, which stands out on the fabric.
Meenakari
This technique involves the use of vibrant, contrasting threads to create multicolored motifs. Inspired by the art of enamel jewelry, Meenakari Banarasi sarees often feature floral and paisley patterns. The combination of colorful silk threads creates an ornate and royal appearance, enhancing the richness of the saree.
Jamdani
Jamdani is a weaving technique of fine loom-embroidery that traces its roots to the region of Dhaka in Bangladesh. Known for its extremely fine quality and ethereal appeal, Jamdani weaving comprises a discontinuous extra weft yarn that is woven into the threads of the warp. Most often, the patterns are made using heavier threads on a lighter, translucent fabric such as handwoven cotton or muslin. The painstaking process of patterning results in a light and comfortable textile with a reverse that is nearly indistinguishable from the front and has no float.
Tanchoi
Tanchoi is a weaving technique that involves a single or double warp and multiple (usually two to five) coloured wefts, often of the same or very close shades. It produces a self-design, which covers the fabric and ensures that there is minimal float on the back. It is famed for the intricate and small weaving patterns all over the fabric.
